Interview with Jonathan Hancock

Jonathan Hancock began leading ExperiencePlus! tours in France back in 2001. In 2007 he became our Country Coordinator in France taking care of all of the tour logistics including hotel and restaurant selections and reservations, organizing special events, deciding on menus, and reviewing route changes. Somehow with all of that he still manages to find the time to help lead the majority of our bicycle trips in France. We couldn’t help but wonder how a boy from Montana grows up to work, live and ride his bike in the south of France…

Your passion for France is strong and sincere; how did your path lead you from growing up in Montana to a life in south France?

It’s true that not many Montanans end up living in the south of France. The improbable and exciting chain of events that has led to my love for France started on the farm with a curious itch for adventure. I had the opportunity to attend a boarding school in Connecticut when I was 16. It was one of the best decisions of my life and gave me my first taste for travel and new places. It was at that point I realized anything was possible. So I became addicted to new opportunities and challenges, moving first to California to learn how to surf, then Colorado to bike and go to college, and then France for a year abroad. France seemed like the logical choice given the fact that I had taken French in school and I only saw it as a means to leave the US to discover something new. However, when I got there I noticed an immediate difference. The language came alive, the culture enthralled me, the food charmed me, and I did not want to leave. It was a perfect fit. Ten years later I’m still captivated each day with my surroundings that keep feeding my sense of adventure. I imagine I’ll be here for another 10 years to come.

Tell us about the traditional markets that seem to be an integral part of French towns.

Markets in France are one of the quintessential expressions of French daily life. In a given region there are markets every day of the week each day in a different town or village. They not only reflect the French tradition of eating local and fresh but they also hold the social fabric together. Everybody plays out their roles as artisans, merchants, customers, neighbors, etc. It’s a vibrant place to watch the French in action.

What comes to mind with the phrase “scenic cycling and picturesque villages of France”? 

France is one of the best European countries for cycling because of its vast network of small country lanes that wind through gorgeous landscapes. Many of these roads would be considered bike paths by American standards given their size and limited traffic. I grew up a mountain biker but when I came to France with my MTB I spent so much time on the road pedaling from one quaint village to the next that I ended up putting road tires on my bike before finally buying a road bike. I have toured all throughout France by train, car, and bus but can safely say that cycling on these roads is hands down the best way to discover the picturesque villages and landscapes of France.

You have led numerous tours that climb the famous cols in both the Pyrenees and the Alps. Do you have a "col" story to share?

We brought a group to see several stages of the race for the yellow jersey in 2004, one of which was the first ever individual time trial on the Alpe-d’Huez.  The previous year Lance Armstrong had joined the elite group of racers to have won the race 5 times. Now he was aiming to make history. We had set up a beautiful barbecue on the second to last turn of the climb with incredible views of the surrounding glaciers and mountain peaks. As the day started we were already enjoying the sunshine and feeling the frenzy quickly mount before the first riders took off. One of our guests seized an opportunity to jump out on the race route, get down on one knee and ask his girlfriend to marry him in front of thousands of people. She let out a resounding yes across the valley and we all knew this was going to be an unforgettable day. As the racers started to come up one by one in two minute intervals we debated how possible it would be to have one racer pass another on this grueling climb. Lance and Ivan Basso were in 1st and 2nd place in the general classification so they would leave last. Basso was riding strong and we all realized that this climb could make or break the race for both riders. As they attacked the infamous 21 turns, Basso leaving 2 minutes ahead of Lance, we could hear a roar rise up the valley. Our group was perfectly positioned at the base of a switchback. When Basso rounded our corner we were shocked to see that Lance was within view and gaining ground. Making up 2 minutes on a climb like the Alpe-d’Huez is nothing short of Herculean. Not only did Lance catch Basso but he passed him right in front of our wide-eyed stares and flashing cameras. It was too good to be true. I’ll never forget the grin on our faces as we coasted down the mountain knowing that we could not have been at a better place in time. Lance had also sealed his place in racing history.

What regional cuisine should we not pass up when visiting the different regions of France?

Mmmm…where do I begin? The great thing about France is the rich variety of foods that are distinctly different from one region to the next. I’ll stick to my 3 favorites for fear of making you unbearably ravenous. If you’re in Brittany you must taste the succulent shellfish like the crab (tourteau), whelk (bulots), and tellines (some call them sunset shells). The tourteau and whelk are excellent just dipped in a bit of mayonnaise. Yes, I know, those Europeans and their mayonnaise! The tellines are excellent sautéed with parsley and garlic. And of course Brittany is home to the crêpe. Sweet with white flour or savory with buckwheat flour, and a crêpe is not complete without a cup of dry hard cider. If you’re in the southwest of France near the Dordogne River or Toulouse buckle up for some intense duck and goose dishes. Try the “magret de canard” usually served with a red fruit or honey sauce. For the best controversial dish in the country there’s the foie gras to be tried at least once in your life to see what all the fuss is about. Goose foie gras is slightly better than duck. If you get it from a local farm you’re sure that it comes from a “happy” bird. Finally the region closest to my heart, Provence, offers a surprisingly simple, yet intensely aromatic cuisine. Most of you have heard of “Herbes de Provence”, that lovely cocktail of greenery that flavors the freshest free-range meats and local fish. The lamb in Provence not only feeds on these herbs but is slow-cooked with them. I recommend trying the “gigot d’agneau” which is oven roasted often with rosemary and garlic. The list wouldn’t be complete without the flagship dish of all the port towns in the southeastern coast of France: “la Bouillabaisse”. Any self-respecting Frenchman that has spent time on the Mediterranean coast has attempted to find the ultimate bouillabaisse. The quest is half the fun!

 If you have a day off from work…

I go for a bike ride! Now that I spend more and more time behind a desk riding my bike has become vital sustenance for my soul. That’s why I’m so happy when I’m on tour!